HUNCALÝFE ÜRÜN GRUPLARI
SCENT STYLES IN ESSENCE
The style of essence is the determination of
sentimental feature. The basis of natural scents
defines the group of compounds derived. Since the
composite essences are the synthetic-scent compounds
formed by basing on these scents, their styles are
determined according to the scent resembled.
*Citrus - Hesperidia: Hesperidia:
consists of raw materials such as bergamot, lemon,
orange, tangerine, grapefruit, orange blossom, lime,
petitgrain, neroli oil, etc. It is used in the
perfumes for the purpose of giving the feeling of
freshness and relief. It is well harmonized with the
woody and spicy notes.
*Gourmand : includes the scents
called food flavors resembling eatable stuff such as
coffee, caramel, cake, etc.
*Fruity : is the single or combined
fruit scent giving the feeling of fruit notes
specifically such as melon, peach, apple, mango,
pineapple, papaya, etc.
*Floral : are the flower scents. In
this group, both a single floral, soli flora and
floral bouquet are perceived. Geranium, hyacinth,
oleaster flower, jasmine, orchid, lavender, lily,
rose, etc may be exemplified. Lily of the valley
reminds the innocence and purity, orange tuberose or
ylang-ylang reminds the sexuality, iris group which
is known with the violet and muguet scents reminds
the spring. The group called as bright floral is
known as the mixture of single and multiple floral
groups.
*Spicy - Aromatic: are the exotic,
bitter and leathery scents. Bay, common sage, anis,
capsicum, rosemary, bay, basil, lavender, little
coco, black pepper, cardamom, clove, mint,
colchicum, cinnamon, tarragon, allspice, ginger,
curcuma, thyme oils may be given as an example.
*Fougere: means fern in French. It
includes the scents generally containing lavender or
coumarin, etc, giving the feeling of freshness and a
little bit spicy and generally used as men’s
perfume.
*Green, Herbaceous : Herbaceous:
includes herbal scents such as plant, meadow, etc.
It gives the feeling of freshness. Most of the green
scents are derived from Galbanum (fresh, woody,
spicy). Green scents represent the naturality,
freshness and youth. It is also interpreted as
little lighter of Chypre style.
*Chypre : Chypre type scents which
mean Cyprus in French are sharp and leathery scents.
These are the combinations consisting of the mixture
of floral scents such as lily, rose or jasmine, etc
and woody scents. This style is not quite preferred
nowadays.
*Animal : civet, musk and amber are
included in this type of scents. Amber notes are
hot, sweet and lascivious. The animal compounds are
frequently used as base note due to having fixative
features. Animal scents may be combined with
vanilla, flora, woody scents, camphor or tobacco
scents.
*Oriental : These are intensive,
leathery and exotic scents and include musk,
vanilla, spice, tropical flowers, aromatic herbs,
tobacco, animal notes and balsam combination of
other trees (Benjamin and tolu balsam, etc.).
*Tobacco : Its scent is quite
leathery and may be combined with the scent styles
such as wood, tree, vanilla, etc and powdery or soft
scents.
*Woody : These are hot, leathery
and heavy scents, and long-lasting. They represent
the scents of wood which is just cut or dry such as
Virginia cedar, gaiacwood, patchouli, vetiver,
oakmoss and sandalwood, etc or the forest.
*Aldehyde : These scents arouse and
tickle the nose slightly like an almond and mostly
contain aldehyde aroma compounds in their formation.
Aldehyde aroma compounds are frequently used in
ladies’ scents and softener scents.
*Oceanic, Ozone, Aquatic, Marine, Cool :
epresent cleanliness and modernity. Those
represent waterfall, clean air, transparent like
wind and refreshing scents. When used with green
notes, they resemble the scents smelt upon rain.
They are mostly combined with oakmoss.
There are some terms mostly used in defining
the scents:
Sweet
Powdery
Soft
Clean
RAW MATERIALS OF SCENTS
Raw materials of scents consist of two groups:
1-Aroma compounds
2-Natural compounds (essential oils)
1-Aroma Compounds: Aroma compounds
used in scent production are entirely organic
compounds. Aromatic types of organic groups such as
alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, amine, ester, ether,
terpene, thiol, etc are used in composite scent
production. These compounds are mostly derived by
synthesizing with various chemical reactions and
rarely from natural agents. Aroma compounds are
produced by synthesizing in the countries where
chemical industry is developed. In our country, the
aroma compounds produced are less in terms of
product range and quantity. Aroma compounds used in
scent industry do not have the purity rate of 100%
under any circumstances. The purity rate is
generally between 95 and 99%. They sometimes may be
the isomer mixtures.
2-Natural Compounds: are the more
or less volatile products derived from a single
floral in the nature or animal secretaries by the
physical methods. There compounds are called as
Essential Oil internationally and as Essential Oil
or Etheric Oil in our country. Herbal originated
essential oil is derived from various parts of the
plants such as flower, leaf, fruits, seeds, stems
and roots, etc. For example;Petals of flowers or
blossoms: Rose, jasmine, violet, orange, chamomile,
ylang-ylang… Scent is the most important factor that
affects our sentimental world and results in arising
of some behaviors and reactions. For example, the
scent of a fresh flower, leaf and greenstuffs
resembles the joy of life and spring. The scent of a
beautiful flower gives the feeling of peace,
happiness and comfort.
Leaf:
Rosemary, bay, basil, thyme, oregano,
peppermint, spearmint, eucalyptus, clove, styrax, …
Peel: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon,
lime, orange, tangerine…
Seed: Anis, carrot, almond, celery,
cumin, nutmeg…
Bark: Cinnamon, pine…
Root:
Orris, valerian, ginger…
Resin: Myrrh, frankincence…
Wood: Camphor, cedar, rosewood,
sandalwood, juniper…
Berry: Allspice... Natural
compounds do not consist of a single compound but
the mixtures of many aroma compounds in various
rates. Therefore, the content of essential oils
varies according to the type, kind and production
region of the herb. For example, Turkish, Bulgarian
and Russian rose oils are different from each other
in terms of chemical formation. Scent and quality
are also different accordingly.
Ambergris, amber: is an oily tuber
which hangs out of sperm whale’s genitalia and
oxidized in that environment. In perfumery language,
the word of amber is used instead of ambergris but
this term must not be mistaken for the yellow amber
which is used in jewelry.
Castoreum: is derived from
aromatic sacs belonging to the secretory glands of a
castor living in North America.
Civet: is derived from aromatic
sacs of a mouse kind belonging to Viverridae family
having various kinds in Africa, India, etc. This
compound is also known as civet-musk.
Musk: This compound was at first
derived from stomach and genital organs of Asian
male musk deer but now it is produced as synthetic
since those extincting animals are taken under
protection by the law and their international trade
is prohibited. Musk deers are mountain animals. One
of these kinds live in Himalaya mountains and the
others live in highlands of Korea, China, Siberia,
Kazakhstan and Mongolia (for example, Altay
Mountains).
Honeycomb: is derived by
distillation of honeycombs made by honey bees.
Other natural resources: lichens
and seaweed are included in this group. Oakmoss and
treemoss are derived from lichens. Since the oils
derived from seaweeds are quite expensive,
synthetics are used instead of those.
Essential oils are classified in 3
groups as product type according to their physical
features and purity rates and defined as follows:
1- Absolut=ABS
2- Concret
3-Oleresin=Resinoid
Absolut=ABS: is the purest type of
essential oils and does not contain any agent other
than essential oils. It is derived by removing the
waxes contained in concret products by means of
alcohol. Alcohol is separated by distillation of
alcohol extract under vacuum. Pure essential oil is
obtained. Absolute is the most concentrated form of
the scent and the most expensive one for this
reason.
Concret: is the mixture of
essential oil herbal waxes derived from solvent
extraction of flower, leaf or other part of a plant
and herbal compounds dissolved in solvent. It has a
semi-solid formation. These compounds hardly
dissolve as they contain wax and resinoid. They
decrease the solubility of scent when used in
scents.
Oleoresin=Resinoid: Resinoid:
generally derived from solvent extraction of dry
branch, stem, etc of herbs or dried seaweeds. It is
the mixture of resin and essential oils at the rate
of 80-90%; essential oils and resins are separated
from each other by various purification methods.
Resinoids are mostly fixative compounds decelerating
the evaporation of volatile substances forming the
perfume and have less liquidity, adhesive,
dark-colored, clear and slightly soluble. These
compounds are generally mixed with proper solvents
and offered for sale thereupon.
A scene of Ancient Egypt, exhibiting the preparation of Orris perfume;
The history of scent fairly fascinating the human being starts with the history of humanity. It is originated in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt and China. It is developed by Europe together with Eastern cultures. Scent is involved in human life in B.C. 4000s in form of burning the aromatic herbs and resins, i.e. incense. The word representing the scent since ancient ages is PERFUME. The word of PERFUME is Latin-origin and derived from the base of PER-FUME which means SMOKE FROM FUME.
People living in ancient times used to aromatize by burning some herbs and spices such as almond, coriander, myrtle, conifer resin, bergamot, etc. The perfume was derived by strongly pressing and blending the petals of flowers, various herbs and spices.
Ancient Egyptians used pleasant scent oils derived from herbs and flowers with scent together with incense during religious ceremonies in order to please the gods. With the desire of carrying pleasant scents beyond life, they embalmed the deceased with aromatic oils and put aromatic oils and creams to the graves as a gift. The fact that some perfume bottles and cream vases were found in the grave of Firavun Tutankhamon during the excavations and that Ramses caused to write on the walls of Ammon Ra temple located in Karnak for God Ra: “I sacrificed thirty thousands of ox with the aromatic herbs and the most magnificent scents.” prove the extent how the scent was appreciated. By the effect of hot climate in East where it is required to take shower frequently, it is started to use the scent on the body in order to smell nice other than religious purposes.
